The last few days were wild and woolly in Istanbul. The famous wind "lodos" (as well as a hailstorm) visited the city like some great biblical prophecy. The birds were confused. Trees bent as though they were shouldering a burden. Looking pensively out of windows, people smoked and drank tea.
But the clear skies are here again and the denizens of Beşiktaş can reclaim the streets.
In search of a morsel, I opted to return to the familiar hunting ground of Şair Veysi Sokak.
Fiskos is sandwiched between Faruk and Çakmak, a turf battleground.
The price and quality war rages on as bedraggled, hungry students and sly entrepreneurial cooks find a happy symbiosis on the pavement.
Actually, it's all very friendly and civilised.
Good breakfast is a civilising thing.
Hungrily and expectantly, I squeezed into the space in the back by the kitchen. You can watch your meal being made by a gang of chatting ladies from there.
The stout proprietess was keeping a watchful eye over the whole operation.
A nar (pomegranate) juice and one oniony menemen later, my lust for delectable morning eats was sated.
The service was swift and friendly, although it didn't occur to me to ask if there was wi-fi as it was so delightful just sitting watching the world go by. The other patrons looked just us satisfied as I felt.
Prices are quite low - 6TL for eggs, 2TL for tea, 9TL for the big mixed breakfast plate (which seemed generous).
Good value and good atmosphere. This place gives Faruk a run for their money.
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